Exmouth to Coral Bay

Exmouth – Saturday 17 to Monday 19 September 2011

Exmouth is a great little coastal town that is situated on the northern tip of the Ningaloo Marine Park, the town has both navy and air force bases, fishing is one of the main industries, but the majority of tourists come to see the fantastic coast line along the Cape Range National Park, where the reef meets the beach. 

Cape Range National Park

Some of the locals running wild in the park

We drove down through the national park to a bay called Turquoise Bay and the water is as clear as and the colour is as the name suggests, a real turquoise colour.  Just fantastic, the reef is about 20 metres off the beach and the weather was around 30 deg with water temps about 23deg, so it was not hard to get and have a look around.  The coral and fish were just spectacular, heaps to look at and some great colours.  Saw a beautiful big turtle swimming along, as you get close to them they certainly can move.

Planking at the Lighthouse

The beautiful coast line

After this we headed further down the coast to a place called Oyster Stacks, here you get in off a rock ledge and you are amongst it all, another great place to snorkel with heaps to see.  On the way back home we called into Jurabi Turtle Centre, didn’t see any turtles but did see about 5 whales just outside the reef carrying on a real treat, best whale display in the wild yet.

Turquoise Bay



Just when you thought it was safe to enter the water



Relaxing in the water, crystal clear and warm

On Sunday we went into the villager as the markets were on, now these were great markets only 6 stalls so it was quick easy and painless. A look around the few shops that were open then a drive out to the beach to check out the sun and sand. That afternoon I set up the outside lounge and watched the Philip Island 500, very comfy and a pleasant afternoon, wrong team won but I had a relaxing afternoon.

My lounge area to watch the car races

Sunday night the wind come up about midnight and blew, in the morning it was still blowing and did so all day.  We checked out the shops once more, being Monday they were all open, had a great coffee then looked around the coastline again. 

Exmouth to Coral Bay - Tuesday 20 September 2011

Not a big drive today only 150km down the coast to Coral Bay, another little village on the Ningaloo Reef.   Here you can snorkel to the reef from the main bay in the village.  Coral Bay has two caravan parks, a resort, basic shops and about 4 diving and fishing charter companies.  The place is owned and run by two families, amenities wise there is little, all water is artesian bore water and the power is a couple of generators over the hill. But the place is packed and beautiful.

Again the water is crystal clear and warm, the sand is so soft it was nice just to sit on the beach and soak up the sun.  From the weather reports south from here  the temps drop to the low 20’s, this will be a shock as we haven’t had temps like that since arriving in Cairns in July.

Coral Bay - Wednesday 21 & Thursday 22 September 2011

Wednesday we went for a sail and snorkel on the Coral Breeze catamaran, we sailed out to the outer reef and anchored while we snorkelled for about 2 hours.  It was so warm with plenty to see, some great coral formations, lots of beautiful fish and a massive manta ray .  Back on board we had a sausage sizzle then sailed up the coast to another dive spot, right on the edge of the reef and the open sea.  Just fantastic, like the other dive spot  there is plenty to see and admire on this beautiful reef.

Relaxing on board the Coral Breeze

Good old Sausage Sizzle you can't bet them

Just chilling out

The afternoon was spent on the beach and watched the norwest snapper fish feeding, it is incredible all these snapper come in an swim around your legs while they are being feed. 

Fish feeding Coral Bay

Thursday was excitement day, and payback day, over the past few weeks I have been on a fishing charter (those who know me know how much I just love fishing and I have ridden a camel).  So today Marlene was going Quad Bike riding, and just not for 30 minutes or an hour it was for 2.5hours up over the sand hills and along the beach.  What a ball, we headed off out of Coral Bay north along these sandy bush tracks then up the side of a sand hill and of course if you go up a huge sand hill you have to come down the other side.  A little daunting at first but all was OK.  We then took off up the beach for about 20km and stopped to snorkel at a place called Oyster Bridge, here there were a huge amount of oysters on the rocks.  We snorkelled for about an hour then took off back down the beach over a couple more sand hills and back to the village.  A very enjoyable morning, back home for the afternoon to catch up on the admin and get ready to head further south to Carnarvon for a few days.

Cruzin the Beach

Out amongst the sand hills

Made it home safe

Broome to Exmouth

Broome to Derby - Horizontal Falls – Saturday 10 & Sunday 10 September 2011

It is now 2 days since we arrived home from our Kimberley Trip and we are starting to catch up, today we leave the van in Broome and head back to Derby, about 220km, then out to the Horizontal Falls  for the night.

We arrived Derby about lunchtime and the place was starting to close for the weekend, we had a look at the huge wharf then went to the Kings Town Resort.   This is where the car is staying the night , while we fly out to the Falls.  The barman at the resort, really a rough pub, assured me that the car would be safe, I was unsure but had no choice.  We flew in a seaplane from Derby airport mid-afternoon and after a smooth landing on Talbot Bay we had arrived at the Horizontal Falls. 

Our plane awaits

Captains ready to go - no need to panic

First thing was to take a boat ride through the falls, the low to high tide is a variance of about 5 metres, causing a huge amount of white water rushing through a 10metres gap in the range, the driver navigated the gap at about 40 knots and with ease then did the big 360 turn, just incredible.  The second falls is a gap of 7 metres and the water was rushing through at a rapid rate, causing a 2 metres wall off water backed up on the top side, we were unable to get through this one, the depth on both falls is about 45 metres.  The whole experience is just incredible to see and experience.

Horizontal Falls from the air

Water rushing through the Falls

Back at the pontoon we swam in the shark cage and feed the sharks, one of the workers had is arm bandaged from a close encounter the week before, so they were real.  On sunset we took off in the boat again for another run through the falls with the sun setting on the range, just spectacular.  We stayed on board the Barra Shack Houseboat the night and of course had fresh Barra for dinner. Sunday morning we were up at dawn to watch the sun rise over the bay, then off to run the falls again.  This time it was at the peak of high tide and we are able to run through both falls, flat strap, just sensational. Back at the pontoon our plane arrived to fly us back to Derby.  The car was still there and I was happy, now for the 2 hour drive back to Broome and sunset on Cable Beach at the SLSC, just another great day in Broome.

Feeding the Sharks

Walter the pet Bat Fish

The crew aboard the Barra Shack - note the guy with the bandaged hand - yep the shark

Broome – Monday 12 & Tuesday 13 September 2011

Monday was an easy start to the day and a last look around the shops in Broome, it really is a great town.  That afternoon we rode the camels along Cable Beach, one of those things you do and it was just fantastic. 

Riding the camels on Cable Beach

Still on the camels

Tuesday we were up early to catch the bus out to Willie Creek Pearl Farm, for the morning.  Another great tourist destination, the they take you through the pearl farming process, then on a cruise to show you the pearl farm, morning tea of homemade damper and of course their showroom.  It was all very interesting, we arrived home and went for our last swim (this time around) on Cable Beach.  That night we found ourselves at Roebuck Bay and the “Stairway to the Moon”.  This occurs when there is a full moon and a low tide, the moon shines across the sand and the reflection looks like a stairway up to the moon.  And yes it does.

Stairway to the Moon - Broome

Broome to Port Hedland – Wednesday 14 September 2011

After nearly 3 weeks in and around Broome it was time to say farewell and turn left and head south for a few weeks. We very much enjoyed our time in Broome and will certainly spend time here again.  Leaving Broome also meant that we were now heading back to Canberra, but still have plenty of great things to do on the way.  We had about 620km to do today so we were on the road by 8am, and 2 tanks of fuel later we were in Port Hedland.  The road is long, straight and fairly uninteresting, but all that aside it has a special something that keeps you interested, any new road and place is always interesting.  Fuel was at Roebuck Roadhouse and Sandfire Flat Roadhouse, that is all there is along the way.

Port Hedland is a huge mining town, there are two things that stand out as you enter town, firstly huge salt piles, Dampier Salt, and the other thing is hundreds of white 4WD with orange aerials, all belonging to the mines, and they are everywhere.

Salt stockpile  - Port Hedland

Salt water on the side of the road

We settled into the Big 4 Cooke Point Holiday Park for the night, we were lucky enough to capture the second night of “Stairway to the Moon” here, it only happens 2 nights each month, and again it was a pretty special sight.

Stairway to the Moon - Port Hedland

Port Hedland to Karratha – Thursday 15 September 2011

Not such a big day today only 250km, but we were on the road by 8am again, our first stop was Roebourne and then out to Cossack a historic place that is home to the first pearl industry in the north west, then on to Wickham to check out 15 Spencer Place where friends use to live, it’s still there Paul and Lyndal, sorry we didn’t make south Hedland.  Onto Karratha and the Big 4 Pilbara Holiday Park.

15 Spencer Pl Wickham

Just to prove the car and van are still clean

We went for a run out to Dampier to check out the port facility and of course many many more white 4WDs with orange aerials.  Also saw the ‘Red Dog’ monument at Dampier, as this is the home of Red Dog from the movie.

Me & Red Dog

Karratha to Exmouth – Friday 16 September 2011

8am on the road again, over 550km again today, 3 days in a row and close to 1400km is tiring, but we wanted to get to the Coral Coast  and a few days’ rest.  Same trip as usual out here, long, flat and only the occasional roadhouse to fuel up at, the difference today was we are now starting to see more and more wild flowers on the side of the road.

Sturts Desert Pea

Starting to see some wild flowers

The flowers are a great sight on the side of the road

Arrived Exmouth mid-afternoon and settled in, the weather is still hot 30deg but much cooler overnight.  It’s all good.  Exmouth is the northern tip of the Coral Coast and the Ningaloo Reef, so we are set to explore this over the next few days.

9 Day Kimberley Wild Loop

Broome to Winjana Gorge - Tuesday 30 August 2011

Well the van is cleaned and the fridges are off, ready to go into storage for the next 9 days while we are on our Kimberley Wild trip.  We had to have both car and van moved off site and in storage by 6:30am for a 6:45am pick up.

Waiting for the Bus

4WD Bus coming around the corner

We were picked up on time, along with another 15 and our Tour Guide, Driver, Cook Cheryl on the bus ready to go.  First day we headed to the “Boab Prison Tree” near Derby, then onto Winjana Gorge to set up camp and lunch.  Camping was tents, swags and sleeping bags, no caravan luxury for the next few days.  After lunch we were taken to Tunnel Creek part of the Napier Range, and walked through the caves along the creek.

Boab Prison Tree

Walking through Tunnel Creek

Back at camp we walked up through the gorge and found 8 freshwater crocs sunning themselves on the bank, incredible to see so many together in the wild, usually you get one or two together.  Back at camp we were treated to a full on BBQ.  It was about now that we were given the next day’s plan, breakfast 5 to 5:30am, Pack tents 5:30 to 6am, pack truck 6 to 6:30am and on the road, it came as a bit of a shock first up but after 9 days we sort of got used to it.

Winjana Gorge

Local Freshie going home

All the Freshies behind us

Winjana Gorge to Mt Barnett Station – Wednesday 31 August 2011

Cheryl was not joking, she woke us all at 5am and we were on the road by 6:30 heading for Silent Grove and Bell Gorge.  This was our first real hike up a rough track and over gorges to a beautiful oasis at Bell Gorge, we all took the opportunity to swim in the waterhole and under the waterfall, before the 45min hike back out to the truck and on the road to Imintji for lunch. Imintji is a roadhouse miles from no-where, it was like most of the Kimberley hot and dusty.

On top of the range towards Bell Gorge

Bell Gorge waterfall and swimming hole



Nice easy track to walk - this is normal for most tracks



Imintji Roadhouse

After lunch the final couple of hours we headed to Mt Barnett Station which was our campsite for the night, right on the edge of the Manning River.  After a great dinner, we all crashed in our swags by 8am, ready for another 5am start.

Our home for 9 days

The kitchen

Mt Barnett Station to El Questro – Thursday 1 September 2011

We weren’t disappointed, the call came at 5am for breakfast and pack, but by 6am we were swimming the river for a 1 hour hike to Manning Gorge.  Here we are, 17 adults on the river back at 6am swimmers on clothes and shoes in polystyrene boxes swimming a river, very different to working, more like something I would have my scouts doing years ago.  But it was great, and when we arrived at the gorge the view was spectacular and the swim under the waterfall was special.  Now another hour walk back to the river swim back over pack the truck and off to El Questro.

Walking into Manning Falls

Our tour group

 It was a special night tonight at El Questro as we were out of the swags and into a cabin, very nice. .

El Questro – Friday 2 September 2011

Emma Gorge

Zebedee Springs

Special treat today seeing that we were not travelling Cheryl gave us a sleep in, 5:30am she was all heart!  First stop on the day was Zebedee Springs by 7am for a swim in the thermal springs, very nice indeed.  Then out to Emma Gorge and a walk up the gorge along the river to another great waterfall and swimming hole.  The wet season this year was one of the biggest for years therefore most waterfalls were still flowing and the countryside looked great, plenty of green for so late in the dry season. 

On the way back to camp we stopped off to view the Chamberlain Gorge and River and the fancy El Questro homestead. Back at camp and time for a rest this afternoon to re-charge then off to the El Questro Steakhouse for dinner.

El Questro to Lake Argyle – Saturday 3 September 2011

Back to 5am starts and on the road by 6:15am heading for Kununurra, we soon left the Gibb River Road and the corrugations and dust.  It was a real experience to do the “Gibb”, I am pleased it was not in my vehicle.

The stop in Kununurra gave everybody the opportunity to buy real coffee and check the phone messages, we talked to Ryan and found out that all was good at home but cold, we reminded him that we had 35 deg today. After fuel and groceries we headed out to Lake Arglye for the night and a great sunset cruise on the Lake, drinking champagne while swimming in the lake watching the sunset, doesn’t get much better.

Enjoying the great pool at Lake Argyle

The beauty of Lake Argyle

Champagne at Sunset swimming in Lake Argyle

Lake Argyle to Purnululu National Park (Bungle Bungles) – Sunday 4 September 2011

Yep up at 5am and on the road by 6:30am, heading back into Kununurra a quick tour around the town, pick up supplies. I got a text message from Ryan for Father’s Day and an email from Catherine, so I felt very special.

We then headed off down the Great Northern highway for about 2 hours to Purnululu National Park turnoff, from the highway to the national park is 53km, which took us just over 2 hours of rocking, rolling and river crossings.  We set up camp and watched the sunset on the “Massive” the main rock formation through the Bungles. Back in the swags to night, watching the sky and stars at night is something special.

Fathers Day in the Bungles

The majestic Bungle Bungles

Bungles Bungles - Monday 5 September 2011

First walk at the Bungles were up through the Beehive formations and Cathedral Gorge, it was just spectacular it was starting to get very warm by the time we had finished this walk we were in for a hot day 38deg.

After lunch we took a helicopter flight over the area we had just walked and it looked just as impressive from the air. Then to finish the day we walked up through Echidna Chasm, another impressive formation.

The famous Beehive

Bungles from the air

Aboard the Helicopter

Planking in Echidna Chasm

Back to camp for our last bush camp night, it was topped off with our “Kimberley Awards” night where everybody received an award for something they had said or done over the past 7 days, lots of laughs and fun, our guide Cheryl won the Kimberley Gold Award for everything she had done for us, even the early starts were getting easier   

Purnululu National Park to Fitzroy Crossing – Tuesday 6 September 2011

On the road early again, we were starting to get used this early starts now, first trip was the 2 hours of rough road to the highway then into Halls Creek for fuel and real coffee.  Just out of Halls creek we visited the China Wall then travelled onto the Laarra Aboriginal Settlement and Art Gallery for lunch, then the final couple of hours to Fitzroy Crossing.  Last dinner for the trip at the Fitzroy River Lodge, we had made lots of knew friends and had a great time.

China Wall

Fitzroy Crossing to Broome – Wednesday 7 September 2011

The last day up and gone by 6:30am out to Giekie Gorge for a river cruise, just another special place to look at some incredible natural structures.  After a tour through Fitzroy Crossing we headed for the 400+ km back to Broome by 4:30pm to find the car and van and put it back on site, my babies were safe and pleased to see me. 

Geikie Gorge Cruise

Geikie Gorge

The 9 days was just fantastic, to see and experience the Kimberley’s we were very lucky we had an excellent guide, very knowledgeable, fun, a great driver and a good cook, what more would you want.  The 5am starts sound hard but they are the best way, you beat the heat and other tourist buses to most areas, and it is crowded at some places, the distances are also incredible you spend a great deal of time on the bus.  

Packing the truck each day was a huge job

Just about home

Our whole trip is a real adventure and the Kimberley’s is one of the real highlights and should be on most peoples Bucket List.

As a wrap up our Kimberley Experience was fantastic, the tour company were teh best  our guide was exceptional and everybody on the tour are now all good friends.  The Kimberley is such a big vast area, the distances between sights are exceptional, so the early starts made a great deal of sense.  Well done Cheryl on running a great trip.  The poem below was written by Graeme, who was on our trip, he wrote the poem while on the trip and it sums up the early starts to a tee.

People Who Laugh at Breakfast

People who laugh at breakfast



The Tour Group in the Bungles



Should explain to the rest of the world...

It's a very odd way

To kick off a day

It comes as a shock

When it's just 5 o'clock

When the sun is just peeping

Other campers are sleeping

The day is just starting

The sparrows are farting

I don't mean to be rude

But it's not about food.

It sets me to wonder

What stars are they under?

At this early hour

What source is their power?

It can't be the grog

Not "a hair of the dog"

Did they dream in their tent

How their passions were spent?

Perhaps it's their genes,

Our Bus/Truck next to a Boab

If you spell what I mean.

So... People who laugh at breakfast

Should explain what the hell it's about

What their neurons are doing

While the cows are still mooing

And the weather report's still in doubt.

I'm not very good at breakfast

In fact I'm a bit of a grump

I scowl at the dishes

Like a batsman who swishes

And finds that he's lost middle stump.

My vocal chords can't make the effort

Till 2 cups of coffee have sung

No words do I utter

Until toast and butter

And Vegemite loosen my tongue.

By midday I'm starting to function

By 5 o'clock PM I'm right

Some are owls, some are fowls

Some have thrown in their towels

By the time that I'm humming - midnight!

But people who laugh at breakfast

Can be ready at 6 for a hike

And people who laugh at breakfast

Are people I'd like to be like.

Broome – Thursday 8 & Friday 9 September 2011

Back in the van and a comfy bed, no we didn’t get up at 5am.  First job to the dentist for Marlene to fix a tooth after a mintie went wrong, then to the Airport to drop Jill and Stuart off, groceries then home for the afternoon to do the washing.

Farewell to Jill & Stuart at the airport



Friday was a quiet day catching up on things and relaxing,  the last 9 days was catching up on us.  A quiet day is what is needed before we get back into travelling mode again. Dinner that night was at the Zoo Café with a number of others from the trip that are still in Broome, lots of laughs.