Sunday, October 2, 2011

Coral Bay to Jurien Bay

Coral Bay to Carnarvon– Friday 23 September 2011
On the road again today and heading for Carnarvon, about 240km, with a heavy head wind all the way, there goes the fuel economy.  Arrived Carnarvon early afternoon and stayed at the Wintersun Caravan Park, good park with cement slabs and grass, heaven.
Had a look around town, went out to the 1mile jetty that was built in the 1800s, today it is used for tourism were the Coffee Pot Train takes you out to the end of the jetty.  Carnarvon is a real fresh food oasis, our park backed onto a farm that had acres and acres of tomatoes plants in and about a metre high, no frost issues here.
1 Mile Jetty, Carnarvon

Coffee Pot Train
Carnarvon – Saturday 24 September 2011
Tourist day today, first stop was of course the markets, I must admit they were good, nice fresh coffee and pancakes along with plenty of fresh produce.  We bought strawberries for $2.00 a punnet, twice the size punnet that you get from Woolies, Bananas $3.00kg, Farm fresh eggs $4.00 doz along with fresh beans, avocado’s and so much more, and of course the chocolate dipped frozen bananas were just fantastic.
Once we dragged ourselves away we headed north out to the Blowholes to check them out, what a sight.  The seas were rough with a big south-easterly blowing and the blow hole was fairly pumping. 
Blowhole in full force

Rugged coastline out at the Blowholes
 We then decided to head back into town and go to the races, it was Carnarvon Cup day. People we met in Coral Bay had a horse running in the cup.  Well we won a bit and lost a bit, coming home roughly even, having a great afternoon.  The horse we were tipped didn’t fair that well, but that racing so they say.
At the races

At least I look like a punter
Carnarvon to Denham – Sunday 25 September 2011
Today was the day to remember, it was our 29th Wedding Anniversary, and we spent the majority of the day in the car heading to Denham (Shark Bay).  We arrived early afternoon to this great park called Denham Seaside Caravan Park, our site overlooked the beach and the transparent blue waters, just magic, that was until the wind came up, but it was still good. 
Just one of the sights you see on the roads up here

It's also common to have to line up for fuel

Our great site looking out across the bay

Sunset from our back door
We celebrated our anniversary by having dinner at the Old Pearl Restaurant, the building is the most westerly restaurant in Australia and is made of shell blocks, quarried nearby.  What a great evening the meal was fantastic (local crayfish are just fantastic), we chatted to a couple on the table next to us and had a lovely evening.
Celebrating our 29th Wedding Anniversary

The Old Pearl Restaurant, made of shell blocks
Denham, Monkey Mia – Monday 26 and Tuesday 27 September 2011
Up early and headed over to Monkey Mia to watch the dolphins come into feed, need to be there by 7:30am and it is a 30km drive.  We arrived and waited on the shore with about 400 others for the dolphins to come in, the dolphins do as they wish and apparently they sometimes don’t come in, as it happens about 3 times a year and yep we picked that day. 
Not a dolphin in sight
We waited on the beach for a couple of hours, lucky the weather was warm and the coffee was nice, at 10:30am we were booked on a cruise out to the Black Pearl Farm and then to spot Dugongs and Dolphins.  The cruise was great, we headed to the “Black Pearl Farm” and was met by Jamie, (those who watch Farmer Wants a Wife will know him), he showed us around his farm and also how they grow black pearls.  After this we  headed out into the bay to look for Dugongs, a very funny looking mammal with a flat nose and basically ugly.  We saw a few and also a few dolphins.   Back to Monkey Mia and were lucky enough to see 2 dolphins come in to the beach, the rangers can only feed the dolphins up to midday, but what we saw was these dolphins hunting down their own fish in the shallows, very special.
Jamie from the Black Pearl Farm

Dolphins playing in the bow wave
Take 2 Tuesday we ventured out to Monkey Mia again, this time a little luckier, 3 dolphins were in by 8am and Marlene was lucky enough to be chosen to feed one.  I was unlucky as the battery went flat in the camera just as it happened, you can only imagine!  We hung around and had coffee and chatted to some people, lucky as about 9 dolphins came into the beach about 10am so we watched them being feed again, very special.
Day 2 the dolphins came in

I'm looking at you
 Back in Denham, we caught up with Don & Patti a NZ couple that were friends with a couple (John & Jen) from a Kimberley trip.  Don & Patti are travelling around Oz, we had dinner with them and enjoyed the night talking about our trips.
Hooked up and ready to leave Denham - check out the grassy sites, sure
Denham to Kalbarri – Wednesday 28 September 2011

On the road again, 350+km with a head wind again heading for Kalbarri, on the way the car had its 100000km birthday.  When we arrive in Perth we will give it another oil change to celebrate, its worked very hard since the last one in Darwin. 

Still looks good even after the 100,000km birthday
We stopped in at Shell Cove, the entire beach is made up of small shells for as far as you can see. Then stopped at Hamlin Pools to check out the Stromatolites, the oldest living organism on the planet, it also a shell quarry where the shell blocks for the restaurant in Denham were cut.
Shells from Shell Cove, the beach goes for miles

Shell blocks quarry

Stromatolites at Hamlin Bay
We arrived in Kalbarri late after, another nice little coastal town, backing onto the Kalbarri National Park, by now the wild flowers are certainly one of the key features they are everywhere.
Kalbarri – Thursday 29 and Friday 30 September 2011
Another big day today, our Princess turns 24, along with a couple of other close friends ( Happy Birthday Catherine, Julie and Shirley) so on the phone early for us, being 2 hours behind Canberra makes it easy to make an early call. 
We headed out to the National Park and spent time at the Natures Window, the Z Bend and Hawkes Head, just marvellous all of them and of course we spotted many beautiful wild flowers.  We had a picnic lunch out there and went on some nice walks through the park, we arrived home ready for dinner and a beer.
Natures Window

Here we are sitting in the wind


Enough said
 Friday we headed south along the coast to check out more spectacular scenery, including the Natural Bridge formation, Island Rock and Eagle Gorge the coastal cliffs are very similar to that along the Great Ocean Rd.  We were also lucky enough to see 5 Whales and 20 or more dolphins frolicking in the sea not that far of shore, they did all their tricks just for us.
Natural Bridge

Island Rock
Coastal cliffs to the south

and the coastline to the north

Back in town for lunch, haircuts during the afternoon an drinks with Don & Patti before we head off tomorrow for Geraldton.
Kalbarri to Geraldton – 1 October 2011
Not a big drive today only 150km down the coast to Geraldton, the biggest thing we noticed on the trip was the change in scenery, we have moved from long flat straights to now rolling hills and green  paddocks and crops.   We called into to Port Gregory to look at the Pink Lake, and it is very pink and impressive. The second thing we needed to get use to again was traffic lights, which we have not seen since Katherine, back in mid-August.
Pink Lake at Port Gregory

It is a bright pink
Had a look around the town and visited the WA Museum, which has a great tribute to the HMAS Sydney II and the effort that went into searching for it.  We also saw the Pacific Sun cruise ship in the harbour, on its way to Broome.  During the afternoon we also kept tabs with the AFL grand final and was pleased to hear Geelong score a win over Collingwood.
Pacific Sun at Geraldton
Geraldton to Jurien Bay – Sunday 2 October 2011
Another easy day, with a 215km drive down the coast to Jurien Bay, a pleasant trip very scenic being able to look out over the ocean most of the way.  Arrived about midday, this is only a little fishing and crayfish village, with great beaches, had a walk along the beach, then settled in by 2pm to watch then Mighty Manly Sea Eagles take on and score victory over the Warriors in the NRL Grand Final.  Kit was all over by 4:15pm and I must say not a lot of people over here showed a great deal of interest in this grand final.  I have just seen my two favourite football teams win over the weekend, could I be lucky enough to see a big win on the mountain next weekend?

We move onto Perth tomorrow.
Jurien Bay coastline
Some of the fabulous Wild Flowers we have seen
 
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Thursday, September 22, 2011

Exmouth to Coral Bay

Exmouth – Saturday 17 to Monday 19 September 2011
Exmouth is a great little coastal town that is situated on the northern tip of the Ningaloo Marine Park, the town has both navy and air force bases, fishing is one of the main industries, but the majority of tourists come to see the fantastic coast line along the Cape Range National Park, where the reef meets the beach. 
Cape Range National Park

Some of the locals running wild in the park
We drove down through the national park to a bay called Turquoise Bay and the water is as clear as and the colour is as the name suggests, a real turquoise colour.  Just fantastic, the reef is about 20 metres off the beach and the weather was around 30 deg with water temps about 23deg, so it was not hard to get and have a look around.  The coral and fish were just spectacular, heaps to look at and some great colours.  Saw a beautiful big turtle swimming along, as you get close to them they certainly can move.
Planking at the Lighthouse

The beautiful coast line
After this we headed further down the coast to a place called Oyster Stacks, here you get in off a rock ledge and you are amongst it all, another great place to snorkel with heaps to see.  On the way back home we called into Jurabi Turtle Centre, didn’t see any turtles but did see about 5 whales just outside the reef carrying on a real treat, best whale display in the wild yet.
Turquoise Bay


Just when you thought it was safe to enter the water

Relaxing in the water, crystal clear and warm
On Sunday we went into the villager as the markets were on, now these were great markets only 6 stalls so it was quick easy and painless. A look around the few shops that were open then a drive out to the beach to check out the sun and sand. That afternoon I set up the outside lounge and watched the Philip Island 500, very comfy and a pleasant afternoon, wrong team won but I had a relaxing afternoon.
My lounge area to watch the car races
Sunday night the wind come up about midnight and blew, in the morning it was still blowing and did so all day.  We checked out the shops once more, being Monday they were all open, had a great coffee then looked around the coastline again. 
Exmouth to Coral Bay - Tuesday 20 September 2011
Not a big drive today only 150km down the coast to Coral Bay, another little village on the Ningaloo Reef.   Here you can snorkel to the reef from the main bay in the village.  Coral Bay has two caravan parks, a resort, basic shops and about 4 diving and fishing charter companies.  The place is owned and run by two families, amenities wise there is little, all water is artesian bore water and the power is a couple of generators over the hill. But the place is packed and beautiful.
Again the water is crystal clear and warm, the sand is so soft it was nice just to sit on the beach and soak up the sun.  From the weather reports south from here  the temps drop to the low 20’s, this will be a shock as we haven’t had temps like that since arriving in Cairns in July.
Coral Bay - Wednesday 21 & Thursday 22 September 2011
Wednesday we went for a sail and snorkel on the Coral Breeze catamaran, we sailed out to the outer reef and anchored while we snorkelled for about 2 hours.  It was so warm with plenty to see, some great coral formations, lots of beautiful fish and a massive manta ray .  Back on board we had a sausage sizzle then sailed up the coast to another dive spot, right on the edge of the reef and the open sea.  Just fantastic, like the other dive spot  there is plenty to see and admire on this beautiful reef.
Relaxing on board the Coral Breeze

Good old Sausage Sizzle you can't bet them

Just chilling out
The afternoon was spent on the beach and watched the norwest snapper fish feeding, it is incredible all these snapper come in an swim around your legs while they are being feed. 
Fish feeding Coral Bay
Thursday was excitement day, and payback day, over the past few weeks I have been on a fishing charter (those who know me know how much I just love fishing and I have ridden a camel).  So today Marlene was going Quad Bike riding, and just not for 30 minutes or an hour it was for 2.5hours up over the sand hills and along the beach.  What a ball, we headed off out of Coral Bay north along these sandy bush tracks then up the side of a sand hill and of course if you go up a huge sand hill you have to come down the other side.  A little daunting at first but all was OK.  We then took off up the beach for about 20km and stopped to snorkel at a place called Oyster Bridge, here there were a huge amount of oysters on the rocks.  We snorkelled for about an hour then took off back down the beach over a couple more sand hills and back to the village.  A very enjoyable morning, back home for the afternoon to catch up on the admin and get ready to head further south to Carnarvon for a few days.
Cruzin the Beach

Out amongst the sand hills

Made it home safe

Sunday, September 18, 2011

Broome to Exmouth

Broome to Derby - Horizontal Falls – Saturday 10 & Sunday 10 September 2011
It is now 2 days since we arrived home from our Kimberley Trip and we are starting to catch up, today we leave the van in Broome and head back to Derby, about 220km, then out to the Horizontal Falls  for the night.
We arrived Derby about lunchtime and the place was starting to close for the weekend, we had a look at the huge wharf then went to the Kings Town Resort.   This is where the car is staying the night , while we fly out to the Falls.  The barman at the resort, really a rough pub, assured me that the car would be safe, I was unsure but had no choice.  We flew in a seaplane from Derby airport mid-afternoon and after a smooth landing on Talbot Bay we had arrived at the Horizontal Falls. 
Our plane awaits

Captains ready to go - no need to panic
First thing was to take a boat ride through the falls, the low to high tide is a variance of about 5 metres, causing a huge amount of white water rushing through a 10metres gap in the range, the driver navigated the gap at about 40 knots and with ease then did the big 360 turn, just incredible.  The second falls is a gap of 7 metres and the water was rushing through at a rapid rate, causing a 2 metres wall off water backed up on the top side, we were unable to get through this one, the depth on both falls is about 45 metres.  The whole experience is just incredible to see and experience.
Horizontal Falls from the air

Water rushing through the Falls
Back at the pontoon we swam in the shark cage and feed the sharks, one of the workers had is arm bandaged from a close encounter the week before, so they were real.  On sunset we took off in the boat again for another run through the falls with the sun setting on the range, just spectacular.  We stayed on board the Barra Shack Houseboat the night and of course had fresh Barra for dinner. Sunday morning we were up at dawn to watch the sun rise over the bay, then off to run the falls again.  This time it was at the peak of high tide and we are able to run through both falls, flat strap, just sensational. Back at the pontoon our plane arrived to fly us back to Derby.  The car was still there and I was happy, now for the 2 hour drive back to Broome and sunset on Cable Beach at the SLSC, just another great day in Broome.

Feeding the Sharks
Walter the pet Bat Fish
The crew aboard the Barra Shack - note the guy with the bandaged hand - yep the shark
Broome – Monday 12 & Tuesday 13 September 2011
Monday was an easy start to the day and a last look around the shops in Broome, it really is a great town.  That afternoon we rode the camels along Cable Beach, one of those things you do and it was just fantastic. 
Riding the camels on Cable Beach

Still on the camels
Tuesday we were up early to catch the bus out to Willie Creek Pearl Farm, for the morning.  Another great tourist destination, the they take you through the pearl farming process, then on a cruise to show you the pearl farm, morning tea of homemade damper and of course their showroom.  It was all very interesting, we arrived home and went for our last swim (this time around) on Cable Beach.  That night we found ourselves at Roebuck Bay and the “Stairway to the Moon”.  This occurs when there is a full moon and a low tide, the moon shines across the sand and the reflection looks like a stairway up to the moon.  And yes it does.
Stairway to the Moon - Broome
Broome to Port Hedland – Wednesday 14 September 2011
After nearly 3 weeks in and around Broome it was time to say farewell and turn left and head south for a few weeks. We very much enjoyed our time in Broome and will certainly spend time here again.  Leaving Broome also meant that we were now heading back to Canberra, but still have plenty of great things to do on the way.  We had about 620km to do today so we were on the road by 8am, and 2 tanks of fuel later we were in Port Hedland.  The road is long, straight and fairly uninteresting, but all that aside it has a special something that keeps you interested, any new road and place is always interesting.  Fuel was at Roebuck Roadhouse and Sandfire Flat Roadhouse, that is all there is along the way.
Port Hedland is a huge mining town, there are two things that stand out as you enter town, firstly huge salt piles, Dampier Salt, and the other thing is hundreds of white 4WD with orange aerials, all belonging to the mines, and they are everywhere.
Salt stockpile  - Port Hedland

Salt water on the side of the road
We settled into the Big 4 Cooke Point Holiday Park for the night, we were lucky enough to capture the second night of “Stairway to the Moon” here, it only happens 2 nights each month, and again it was a pretty special sight.
Stairway to the Moon - Port Hedland
Port Hedland to Karratha – Thursday 15 September 2011
Not such a big day today only 250km, but we were on the road by 8am again, our first stop was Roebourne and then out to Cossack a historic place that is home to the first pearl industry in the north west, then on to Wickham to check out 15 Spencer Place where friends use to live, it’s still there Paul and Lyndal, sorry we didn’t make south Hedland.  Onto Karratha and the Big 4 Pilbara Holiday Park.
15 Spencer Pl Wickham

Just to prove the car and van are still clean
We went for a run out to Dampier to check out the port facility and of course many many more white 4WDs with orange aerials.  Also saw the ‘Red Dog’ monument at Dampier, as this is the home of Red Dog from the movie.
Me & Red Dog
Karratha to Exmouth – Friday 16 September 2011
8am on the road again, over 550km again today, 3 days in a row and close to 1400km is tiring, but we wanted to get to the Coral Coast  and a few days’ rest.  Same trip as usual out here, long, flat and only the occasional roadhouse to fuel up at, the difference today was we are now starting to see more and more wild flowers on the side of the road.
Sturts Desert Pea

Starting to see some wild flowers

The flowers are a great sight on the side of the road
Arrived Exmouth mid-afternoon and settled in, the weather is still hot 30deg but much cooler overnight.  It’s all good.  Exmouth is the northern tip of the Coral Coast and the Ningaloo Reef, so we are set to explore this over the next few days.